With the Michelin Inspectors on the road throughout the year, they eat a vast array of dishes from all cuisine types and restaurant styles. Each month we ask our Inspectors to choose a stand-out dish from the past month's restaurant visits. This could be the most creative dish they ate, something that hit the right note at just the right time or simply the one that stuck in their memory for the longest.
Agnolotti, Burnt Lemon, Broad Beans and Rosemary – Story, London
“One of the highlights of my meal at Story, this dish was a wonderful mix of flavours and textures that will live long in the memory. The agnolotti was impressively precise: cooked perfectly and made with evenly thin pasta. Creamy mascarpone provided the generous filling. A wonderfully rich, full-flavoured butter sauce was a great accompaniment, as was the textural contrast of broad beans and the finishing touch of burnt lemon and rosemary juice. This was squeezed at the table using a duck press, adding a bit of theatre to the experience.”
Black Sole On the Bone, Jerusalem Artichoke, Brown Shrimp and Grenobloise Garnish – 1826, Adare
“This is something of a signature dish here, such a favourite that apparently they could never take it off the menu. The sole was expertly cooked, golden brown and moist, with the flesh coming away from the bone beautifully. The garnishes were in perfect harmony; some crunchy crisps provided a good textural contrast to creamy artichoke purée, while sweet brown shrimps were balanced out by the acidity of capers. The clarified butter around the base of the plate completed the homage to the classic Grenobloise sauce and a few wafer-thin crispbreads finished the dish.”
Hereford Beef, Lettuce, Tarragon, Pickles and Red Wine – hide and fox, Saltwood
“Pink and succulent, the fillet of beef itself was cooked to perfection, with a discernible hit of maturity to the flavour. It melted in the mouth, as did a delicious cube of shredded short rib, topped with crispy shallot and capers. A finger of superbly executed glazed ‘pommes anna’ was suitably crisp and buttery, garnished with tiny dots of tarragon cream. Finishing the dish were a red wine reduction with terrific depth of flavour and a single, crisp ‘basket’ of baby gem lettuce brimming with tiny pickled vegetables that cleverly enhanced this impressively refined dish.”
May 2024
Dry Aged Trout, Wild Garlic and Onion – Wilsons, Bristol
“The fillet of trout itself was superb, lightly confit’d and finished on the barbecue to add an extra dimension to the dish both flavour and texture-wise. This already delicious main component was elevated even further by a light, sweet onion broth that subtly melded with a smooth wild garlic purée to fabulous effect. All this richness was cleverly cut through by a few pickled mushrooms. A dumpling of trout trimmings wrapped in nettle was the perfect finishing touch, providing a dash of originality.”
Pot Roast Pork Loin with Apple and Wholegrain Mustard Roasting Juices – The Sportsman, Seasalter
“The words 'pot roast' rather intrigued me when ordering this dish, as it’s a term you seldom see these days. When the dish arrived, I was not disappointed. A creamy, buttery ‘pommes purée’ formed the base, along with a single lightly cooked carrot and finely shredded sweetheart cabbage. Draped over the top of the vegetables was a thick slice of moist, melting pork. Apple puree and mustard thickened the cooking juices to create a sauce with gentle sweetness and just a hint of bitterness. Bring back pot roasting is all I can say!”
Muscat Crème Caramel with Agen Prune – Walnut Tree, Llanddewi Skirrid
“For many years, I have always chosen a crème caramel as my birthday pudding treat! It’s a simple dish, but one that easily tests the quality of a kitchen. Long-standing Chef-Owner Shaun Hill brings years of experience to the Walnut Tree, and they shone through in one of the best versions of this classic dessert that I’ve had in years. The just-set wobbly dome was texturally perfect and there was a delicious muscat flavour running throughout. The glossy, exquisitely made caramel top was a delight and a poached Agen prune was a delicious extra touch.”
April 2024
Glazed Rare Breed Beef, Charred Leeks, Black Garlic – Celentano’s, Glasgow
“Entirely befitting of a Bib Gourmand restaurant, this dish was hearty, full of flavour and so satisfying to eat – all while showcasing the care and skill of the Celentano’s kitchen team. The beef itself had an appearance not unlike brisket, and was tender to cut, while the thin layer of fat on the meat had been rendered well. It was served with charred baby leeks, a creamy black garlic purée and some finely chopped herbs. A slightly reduced sauce added an extra layer of flavour to finish off the dish.”
Mauritius Vanilla Cube, Roasted Pineapple, Salted Caramel – Gauthier – Soho, London
“Some might think it’s hard to make a rich and creamy dessert that’s also plant-based, but clearly they haven’t had this fine cube of soft vanilla mousse. The assured and strikingly simple presentation made the dish look all the more inviting, and then the intensity of the vanilla flavour delivered on that promise. A wafer-thin, crisp chocolate shell provided a contrast of texture, while super-fruity pineapple compote and glossy salted caramel sauce both worked well to enhance the dish.”
Fritto Misto – Norma, London
“For any London diners seeking a big slice of true Sicilian generosity, look no further than Norma on Charlotte Street. As my starter arrived, I feared I had mistakenly ordered two main courses such was the scale of the enticing ‘fritto’ seafood that came my way. Sea bass polpette, tender squid and delicious red prawns were all included, and given extra flavour by preserved lemon and a chilli aioli topped with red sorrel. It was enough to share – not that I wanted to – but I still found space for an equally super-sized cannoli to finish.”
March 2024
Herdwick Hogget, Mushroom Cream, Asparagus, Morels and Périgord Truffle – White Swan, Fence
“Inside this lovely rustic pub, Chef-Owner Tom Parker imbues every dish with maximum flavour and shows true understanding in his careful balance of ingredients. This was all encapsulated in this superb dish, which was centred around an intense, excellent quality piece of hogget. The meat was enhanced by some large morels filled with a consummately seasoned mushroom cream, along with the grassy tones of the asparagus. Musky truffle and the richness of the sauce rounded off the dish’s flavour profile beautifully.”
Hazelnut, Banana, Caramel – Faru, Durham
“The main element of this finely crafted dessert was a hazelnut parfait, which was served at just the right temperature to deliver a creamy, velvety texture while retaining that delicious hazelnut flavour. It sat on a thin, sweet biscuit and slices of ripe banana in a light caramel, then topped with banana sorbet that was so smooth and nailed its flavour so well that even banana sceptics would be impressed. Golden raisin jelly, rum jelly and crunchy praline rounds completed the dish, while dark chocolate sprayed around the edges provided a neat, refined appearance.”
Seville Orange Marmalade Pudding, Drambuie Custard – 33 The Homend, Ledbury
“My eyes light up whenever I see a sponge pudding on a menu, so I was looking forward to this. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of its appearance; this moist, rich sponge was superb – brimming with Seville orange flavour and accompanied by a stunning, silky custard that carried just the right amount of the oft-overlooked Drambuie liqueur. This dish was proof, if we need it, that sometimes the simplest, most traditional desserts can be the best. A friend of mine remembers it fondly from a few years ago, which speaks volumes.”
